The Ancient Greeks built temples to their gods in the most beautiful locations. Poseidon, the god of the sea, was clearly one of the favourites as the place of worship devoted to him was erected in impressive natural surroundings, high up on rocks 60 metres above sea level at the very end of the Attica peninsula. Sounion stands looking out over the open Aegean Sea, and instils a sense of uncertainty in visitors as to whether they are closer to the sea or the sky. For Athenians, a visit to the Temple of Poseidon has always been a traditional day trip, even though in recent years the construction of luxurious dwellings has helped transform this beloved destination into a popular place for short weekend breaks. Despite the fact that it is only 65 kilometres from the city, Sounion is so completely cut off from any urban centre that when you arrive you have a sense of being much further away from reality than you really are.

An Imposing Temple

Reference to Sounion is made in Homer’s Odyssey, while the findings in the area bear witness to an increase in the idolisation of the gods here from the 7th century BC onwards. The surviving Temple of Poseidon was built upon the ruins of an earlier temple dedicated to the same god during the decade of 450-440 BC, in the period considered to be the Golden Age of Pericles. Today, only 15 pillars constructed in the Doric Style survive of this impressive building. To the northeast there is a temple of the goddess Athena, which brings to mind the dispute between the two gods over who was to control the land of Attica. In the 19th century, the geographical position of these places of worship, and the fact that the greater part of the temple was still imposing, led to Sounion attracting travellers like a magnet. The Philhellenic poet Lord Byron engraved his name on one of the pillars (today anyone attempting to do something similar would be considered a vandal and arrested).

A Coastline of Clear Water

The best time of day for a visit to the Temple of Poseidon is in the evening, for the simple reason that Sounion is renowned for its sunsets. A visit can be combined with a dip in the sea off the beaches of the Saronic Gulf. The route to the temple follows a coastline of clear water, and sea bathing is permitted everywhere. There are no private beaches in Greece. Everyone is allowed access to the beach, although organised beaches have ticketed entry. Both in Sounion, and on the way there, there are restaurants along the side of the sea. Fish and shellfish are often displayed in the windows, and it is customary for customers to choose the seafood they would like to order from what is laid out in the fridge.

An Interesting Town

A trip to Sounion can also be combined with a visit to Lavrion, which is 7 kilometres from the Temple of Poseidon, on the eastern side of Aanttica. To a great extent, Lavrion was the place to which the ancient city of Athens Greece owed its development, as it was where the silver mines were to be found. The fact that the area is rich in mines drew the attention of a French-Italian mining company in the 19th century. The town they built is a combination of industrial and neoclassical elements which attracts even more interest than the working port itself. There are many reasons why a trip to Sounion should be made in conjunction with a visit to Lavrion: the technological park, the archaeological site of Thorikos, and the fish restaurants overlooking the harbour to name but a few.

Where: 70km southeast of Athens

How to get there: By car or bus

By bus: Interurban bus (ktel): +302108808080

Approximate travel time from Athens: 1 hour